Does anyone know anything about door locks?

[Karcheer]

I have a new back door that needs locks and I'm not sure what I need. I want the most secure as I'm super nervous about those kindof things however we are likely to use this more than the front door, so needs to be lockable from both sides.

Can anyone help?
Thank you.

[PigletJohn]

Yes.

Is it a wooden door or a plastic door?

Photos would help.

[Karcheer]

Hi pigletjohn.

It's this door.

I also have a new door between the house and the garage (Mexicano oak fd30 door) that needs locks too, again I'll use this a lot to gain access to the house (with muddy spaniels).

[PigletJohn]

they are both wooden doors and you can't get better than a 5-lever mortice lock tested to British Standard BS3621 (2007).

One of the best on test by Which was the red-cased Union 2134E Deadlock. It is available with a latch as the Union 2234E Sashlock (you can operate the latch with a knob or lever). It is universally available and might be discounted. As it is morticed into the door, look for a joiner or carpenter to fit it for you, he will do it better and quicker than a DIYer or general handywoman.

However:
If you are using it on your Final Exit door, so you can't use bolts at the top and bottom of the door (because you can't operate them from inside) it is preferable to have a lock at hip height (to resist kicking) and one at shoulder height (to resist barging). Some people fit a yale-type nightlatch at shoulder height, and then never bother to lock the deadlock. This is a problem because most nightlatches are very flimsy, and the ones that meet the British Standard are very expensive.

So I am going to suggest that you put a sashlock at hip height and a deadlock at shoulder height. Small children may be unable to reach the high one, as may people in wheelchairs.

If you order them from a proper locksmith, you can get them keyed alike (all suited to the same key, which saves you having to carry a great bunch around). Or if you prefer, you can have the back door and the garage door on different keys. An example supplier is here but there is sure to be a locksmith in a town near you, who may also offer a fitting service. You have to specify that you want them suited when ordering, and buy additional keys (there will only be two or three as standard, however many locks you order).

Look at the hinges as well. Your fire door will (should) be hung on three fire-rated hinges, which are very substantial. Your external doors should be hung on something similar. Post a photo if you are in doubt.

All your other external doors should be fitted with a BS lock and mortice rackbolts top and bottom. Take the keys out when unattended and put them where they can't be seen or touched by anyone outside, even if they break glass. For example on a cup-hook in the architrave on the hinge side of the door so you can easily find them in an emergency.

Wooden doors are stronger and more rigid than plastic, so don't need multipoint locking, though the Vectis is good if you want one.

You may see locks with Eurocylinders. There are several ways that even an unskilled crack-head with a cheap and simple tool can defeat most of them.

[PigletJohn]

p.s.
if you are nervous, you might consider laminated glass in glazed doors. It is not especially expensive. Also a cage round your letterbox to prevent people hooking leys or valuables.