Radiator Problem

[Stockers1]

We have just had a radiator moved, original pipes extended, however while the moved radiator works fine, 3 other radiators now are getting luke warm at the top and cold at the bottom. I have tried turning the moved radiator off but makes no difference.

The plumber has said that there is nothing he has done that would have caused this. Does anyone know if this is right and how it can be fixed?

We have a hot and cold water tank.

[PigletJohn]

most likely the radiators need balancing.

I would have expected that if you turn the hottest one(s) off, the others would heat up.

Is the hot water cylinder unusually hot?

[Spanglecrab]

It's an airlock. Turn off the hot water on the programmer and all radiators that work ok. After 20 minutes turn everything back on and they will probably be ok

[Stockers1]

Thank you.

Now the only problem is that there are no thermostats on the individual radiators, just the one that has been moved, the plumber put one on, so is there a way of turning them down or turning off the hot water to esch without one?

I am not sure if the hot water tank is hotter than normal, but it is hot!

[PigletJohn]

If it turns out to be an airlock, and you are able to wash it out as Spanglecrab describes, then the cylinder will not be relevant. I was thinking of a different problem

yes

there will be a valve at each end of each radiator.

On at least one of them, there should be a knob, which you can turn on and up by screwing up or down. Frequent use will tend to wear out the seals so that after some years, they may start to drip.

However, you should also balance them to control relative flow through each radiator, so that all rooms heat up equally quickly, and to either the same, or different, temperatures according to your desires. This is always necessary, but does not give very accurate temperature control. It was the only method used up to about the 1960's.

I hope you have got a room thermostat on the wall as well.

[Stockers1]

Ok here is a picture of one valve on the end of the hottest radiator. There is only one at this end. I am a bit nervous if turning the valve, it doesn't look like it has been touched for a while...How much do I need to turn it?

[Stockers1]

And sorry there is no wall thermostat.

[Ridingthegravytrain]

You need to turn it right until it won't turn anymore his shitting the water off to that rad (and any other hot ones)

Also do you have any way of checking the pressure. I had this problem upstairs. Turned off the rads downstairs and it only mildly improved. Then checked pressure and it was below 1 bar. Increased it and all now bleed water not air and roasting

[Ridingthegravytrain]

Autocorrect got a bit sweaty there!

[Ridingthegravytrain]

Sweary ffs!

[PigletJohn]

start saving up for a wall stat. It is pretty simple to fit but you had better ask a heating engineer if there is not an old one.

You can get cheap dial-type wall stats, or a much better one that will enable you to set different temperatures for different times of day. If the cost is a problem, a cheap one will at least improve comfort and economy. It can be swapped later for a more modern one, using the same wires. This is a much simpler job than fitting the first one.

You can get wireless stats, but they go wrong more.

As for the radiator knob, I can see it is old and has leaked a bit. If it starts leaking when you move it, turn it fully off or fully on and it will probably stop. If you don't want to risk it, then, with no room stat, I think you will have to use the timer/programmer to turn the heating on and off. This is not very efficient or economical. Some systems were put in like that, usually for old people who liked to turn them on and off like an electric fire. You only have a valve at one end because you have microbore piping. If your boiler is fairly old it may not be pressurised and there will be no pressure gauge on the boiler.

[Spanglecrab]

I wouldn't worry about pressure. It's a bit more unusual for rads on the type if system in the picture (microbore) to be pressurised. I'd imagine the system is open vented with a tank in the loft

at shitting the water off

[Stockers1]

The boiler does have a pressure gage and in the green so think that's ok.
I had never really thought about a thermostat before, just use the timer so I'll have a look into that, thank you.
I'll try and turn the valves off and let you know!