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Floorboards vs new wood flooring vs parquet

(14 Posts)
silversixpence Sat 28-Nov-15 12:36:51

We are about to move into a Victorian house with carpet over the floorboards throughout downstairs. We sanded the boards in our current house and had white oil on them but it is cold despite gaps being filled properly and they are scratched and worn after less than two years. I don't like orangey pine so definitely need to paint or stain the boards.

The other option would be a new engineered wood floor which would be much more expensive but would be warmer and can buy them ready finished in the right colour. We are planning to extend next year so can buy the same again to have one type of flooring throughout the downstairs.

I'd also consider parquet throughout but it seems it would be more expensive to fit, has anyone done this? I'm worried it could look too busy as well. I'm not sure about solid parquet in the kitchen but there aren't many engineered options.

PigletJohn Sat 28-Nov-15 12:58:45

If you want a bare wooden floor, seriously consider having all the boards taken up and insulation laid between the joists. Most of the cold is from draughts, which mineral wool will block as it stuffs into irregular gaps. Do not block the space under the joists as this is needed to ventilate away damp.

You can take advantage of the access to clean out the void, unblock the airbricks, and do any plumbing or wiring that you can think of, including phone, broadband, TV, alarm, speakers, and to insulate or replace underfloor pipes. You can include access hatches.

It is best done before you start laying carpet or decorating. You will never want to take up the floors again, even if they need it. This is a source of great annoyance to plumbers and electricians.

This will give you better heat retention than boarding over your floorboards, and will save you having to cut all your doors and skirtings. If you decide to lay a new floor it needs to be at least 18mm thick, and in long lengths. Most engineered floor is in small bits made of left-overs so will not span enough joists. You can relay your own, or recycled, old floorboards if you like the originality.

I would not use parquet in a kitchen as it will react badly to damp, including leaks, humidity, and constant wet around pets' bowls, and is liable to lift as well as stain.

OliviaBenson Sat 28-Nov-15 12:58:37

We've got parquet but it's karndean (vinyl) in our kitchen- it fools about 99% of visitors. Could that be an option?

silversixpence Sat 28-Nov-15 13:50:45

Pigletjohn can this be done by normal floor sanding companies or does it need someone more specialised? Any ideas how much cost it would add?

The problem would be that we can't replace our boiler immediately as it will need to go in the utility room in the new extension which can't be started for a few months at least (likely not to be complete until the summer). In the meantime the carpets are dreadful so I really need them taken up before we move in.

Any thoughts on engineered parquet? I've seen it in quite a few kitchen extensions online.

Olivia I have seen some nice Karndean but prefer real wood for the original parts of the house, we may use Karndean in the kitchen extension as it does look hard wearing

PigletJohn Sat 28-Nov-15 14:13:24

you need a carpenter, or a general builder, or an experienced builder's labourer, or a person with a big hammer and a bolster. A DIYer can do it but if you intend to re-use the boards you need care to be taken not to damage all of them (some will always be damaged) and to de-nail them. It is not remotely complicated. You might fall down the hole if you are careless. Your cat will go exploring.

It is not a job for a floor sanding company unless they happen to also offer carpentry.

During the winter, people who usually work on new builds may be attracted by an indoor job out of the wind and rain.

silversixpence Thu 03-Dec-15 22:48:54

any other advice before i commit to floorboards?

Borderterrierpuppy Fri 04-Dec-15 11:28:56

Hi we have done engineered oak parquet in our kitchen diner and I love it . Went for engineered as apparently it's harder wearing with water ect.

silversixpence Sat 05-Dec-15 12:46:15

Your kitchen is stunning! We want shaker units in grey so its nice to get an idea of how it all looks together. Is your flooring oiled or laquered?

Mama1Mia Sat 05-Dec-15 23:27:09

Borderterrierpuppy where are your kitchen units from?

Ipanema01 Sun 06-Dec-15 09:36:52

silversixpence sorry for hijacking, but I'm looking for a way to have white for my engineered oak flooring; does white oil give a very white look or is it still quite 'woody' and was it hard wearing/simple to keep clean?
Thanks

justanotherquestion Sun 06-Dec-15 13:48:10

Borderterrierpuppy - would love to know where you got your flooring from.

toodarnhilly Sun 06-Dec-15 18:38:46

Following as we have a similar dilemma with plans to do extensive works in a year or so, but need an interim solution for manky carpets.

Also keen to know where borderterrier's floor is from

silversixpence Sun 06-Dec-15 19:37:07

Having researched this pretty extensively (!) I think we will either go for Woca Castle Grey oil or a grey/white oiled board which doesn't completely change the colour of the oak. When we had our floorboards white oiled, they looked pale after one coat, a bit like beech.

If you search engineered herringbone oak flooring you should find a few like the one borderterrier posted. I love it but am not sure about it for the whole of downstairs. I am also considering engineered chevron oak parquet which is stunning but can probably only do it in our extension due to cost.

Borderterrierpuppy Sun 06-Dec-15 22:17:21

Hi the flooring is Boen engineered oak, pre treated so once it's down no further treatment required. The fitter that laid it specialises in parquet and I think that is probably more important than where you get the boards from. I bought it from first floors in gifnock Glasgow. Cost for 34 m sq was around £2550 and fitting £ 800. I love it and it doesn't show the dirt easily either.

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