Advice needed from a builder!

[Lookslikeimstuckhere]

Recently had extension built and sliding doors put in. Damp proof course is a little bit under the doors (builder had to raise up door for some reason so is at the bottom of the mortar).

Anyway, noticed today that the lowest brick either side of the doors and the mortar underneath the doors is wet. The damp proof course is underneath the wet brick.

Any advice? Do I need to haul the builders back in?

[Lookslikeimstuckhere]

Anyone around? Builder has said he'll come and take a look but I'm always wary that he fobs me off...

[roneik]

Just a keen DIY person, where is the sill? All of the patio doors sliding or opening I have had in different houses have had one. Surely the water will just cascade down the glass onto the brickwork on yours. The photo shows scruffy sealant that looks like it's compensating for a door that should have been wider. I noticed a dent in the framework at the bottom as well.
Out of ten I would generously give it 4 for effort .

[Lookslikeimstuckhere]

We questioned the lack of a sill but the door company said it doesn't need one, it's meant to be a flush fitting. I think that is definitely the reason for the mortar as you do and I'm going to get onto the door company.

Just can't figure out the one brick to the side? The dpc was one roll but guess it's soaking from the mortar.

The sealant is patchy but the door fit really well on the sides - height was the issue.

Door isn't dented, was just dirt on the photo I think!!

[Lookslikeimstuckhere]

Thank you so much for replying btw!

Husband also keen DIYer but hasn't done doors. As yet!

[roneik]

That sealant kooks like casement putty. The clue is the finger marks.
Casement putty is for glazing not brickwork to steel

[roneik]

looks not kooks

[Lookslikeimstuckhere]

Interesting. I've emailed the door company and will raise that issue with them.

Thank you, has been most helpful. Think we'll scrape out the existing mortar and put a sill in underneath, then seal properly. DH quite happy to undertake this thankfully, will add it to the list of jobs!

Wasn't very impressed with the fitters when they were here to be honest. Hard when you have a toddler to try and sort these things out!

[roneik]

I reckon the sill will stop the water from tracking along the mortar.

[PigletJohn]

I don't think it's putty, I think it's sealant.

The rounded fillet marks on the vertical are where it has been pushed out the gun and not smoothed.

The frame will (should) have drain holes in the bottom for rainwater to escape. Use a jug to pour water into the tracks where the doors sit, and see where it comes out.

It sounds like your paving is above the dpc, which is wrong.

[Lookslikeimstuckhere]

Our paving is above the dpc but isn't touching it at all, we left a channel that goes down further than the dpc, just has stones filling it so water can drain away. The patio is set at a slight slope to drain away from the house.

Two different builders looked at doing the patio and both said they wouldn't pave right up to the edge as the door company said you could, because of the dpc. But would be happy to leave a channel. We actually asked for a drainage channel but they refused because it would require concrete to be put in next to the dpc.

I will definitely try the water thing piglet, thank you.

[Lookslikeimstuckhere]

Right, poured the water on tracks and it trickles to the end and then out of a little vent. It does it slightly neater on one side than the other and the neat side doesn't have the wet brick.

Wondering if a little bead of silicon or something to channel it better where they haven't quite put the grey stuff in the best position would help...

But then it's going to continue dribbling down on to the mortar.
DH tells me that the mortar is purely a visual thing, that the door has a c like frame behind the mortar that is the internal sill.

Trying to find the technical drawings to put up to see if that helps!

Thank you!

[Lookslikeimstuckhere]

Tech spec

[PigletJohn]

poke the vent with stiff wire in case there is a bit of mortar or something obstructing the flow.

I would be tempted to push a piece of dpc under the frame, to prevent the weep running onto the brick. Or lead to do a proper job. I think you are entitled to complain to the installing company. There may be a plastic extrusion designed for the job. Or maybe the frame has been set too far back.

[Lookslikeimstuckhere]

Thank you Piglet, I fully intend to complain to them and will definitely be following your advice - we actually have some lead that we could use so will do that.

Our fault really, pay peanuts and all that...

[roneik]

Well visual or not you already have one saturated brick to the right,we are now going into the winter. All the channels on my french doors have drain vents and a sill, that's not the point though is it? because the water is finding it;s way to the brickwork /mortar. I would say from that small photo that the door is set inside too far the best way of overcoming is a sill. Common sense tells you that when the door is closed one static door will be covering the track so water wont be draining away.I have yet to encounter a good sealant that you can leave those finger impressions on. They are applied with applicator gun and are far too tacky to touch for quite some hours. Just like a window sill in concrete has a groove underneath for water to flip over and not roll back , your door will rely on similar theory. So the door frame is either set with level incorrect or set too far into the building.
The only occasion I would have a sliding door without a sill is when you have a conservatory and the sliding door in reality is internal. Still what do I know none of my doors have ever soaked brickwork above the damp proof course.

[Lookslikeimstuckhere]

Thanks for your comments so far, plenty to take up with the installation company!