Mould on the skirting boards (Help Anyone/PigletJohn please)

(6 Posts)
FishfingersAreOK Mon 31-Dec-12 20:38:15

House been renovated throughout - so "wet" from full replastering, repainting, generally drying out - plus drying out from the 300 litres that leaked from the water tank 3 days after moving in 3-4 weeks ago.

So we have had some--horrific puddles of-- condensation. I have resorted to a tumble drier. Am opening windows daily, wiping away what condensation does appear and trying to keep ventilated at all times. It is getting better. No washing is draped anywhere anymore (OK, OK, I'll admit to drying the odd bra in the utility room) Extractor fan used throughout and or sometime after showering.

However I have discovered that there is black mould growing on the top of the skirting boards of my DD's bedroom. It is just on the north facing - outside wall side of her room and her bedroom window has been one of the better ones in the house. Her room (and the starting spot for the mould) is near the airing cupboard/boiler/hot water tank).

Am wiping away - but wanted to know if anyone had any idea if this mould was just another symptom of condensation which is getting better and so hopefully will disappear too. Or is this a symptom of something else? Should I think about getting my builder to put in some kind of air brick near this skirting board?

Is this just the drying out - or do I need to get my builder to fix it as a snag?
Thank you in advance and a very Happy New Year!

OP’s posts: |
dishwashervodkaanddietirnbru Mon 31-Dec-12 20:41:46

would a dehumidifier help to dry things out quicker?

FishfingersAreOK Mon 31-Dec-12 21:05:39

Probably but totally skint atm so trying to avoid the cost unless I have to...have some of those gel/desiccated things on the worst areas.

OP’s posts: |
PigletJohn Mon 31-Dec-12 21:30:39

mould will be caused by excess humidiy. Wipe it off hard surfaces with bleach. It will come back until you are dry. Run the extractors 24 hours. Open the windows as much as you can, especially in wet or newly-plastered rooms. Open the loft hatch during the day to cause airflow through the house and out through the roof (if the roof is felted under the tiles, look at it for condensation and close the hatch at night and on cold days.

Only ventilation will clear it. A large dehumidifier uses quite a lot of electricity. You can put fans to blow on damp patches and the moving air will help evaporate the water, but you have got to ventilate to get it out of the house.

You may need to wear vests and jumpers. Closing the windows will hold the moisture in and make it take longer to dry. As long as the temp is above freezing, airflow will dry it.

Clear the cobwebs and dirt that is clogging your airbricks, as the flood will have make the subfloor wet. Lift a few floorboards. e.g. under the stairs which is often uncarpeted. Lift any wet carpets and underfelt.

Call your insurers about the flood and they may lend you dehumidifiers and take up carpets depending on cause. If so they will pay for the dehumidifier electricity.

When you use a dehumidifier you have to close the doors and windows otherwise it will try to dehumidify the world.

FishfingersAreOK Mon 31-Dec-12 22:32:26

Oh thank you! I have been doing this - to a degree - but is good to know I am doing the right thing...may wait til after Dc are back at school to do the full blown doors/windows open. And can tell DH yarboosucks about "heating the whole world". Will just turn heating off - open up and let it dry!

Just great to have a plan and the hope we will not be faced with this forever!

Oh and condensation markedly worse the morning after the day I did hang a load up!

Thank you. I luffs you.

OP’s posts: |
Springforward Mon 31-Dec-12 23:18:56

We had a sewer flood in a previous property, insurers appointed a flood restoration company who lent us massive dehumidifiers for weeks. Insurers also gave us some money to cover the extra electricity.

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