Replacing boiler and moving from kitchen to attic(9 Posts)
Our boiler is currently on the kitchen wall, we're thinking of having an extension on the back of the house so need to move the boiler. The only other external wall in the kitchen is not suitable and don't have any other suitable places downstairs so am thinking of putting it in the attic.
Has anyone done this? Was a hugely major piece of work and (more importantly) did it cost loads??
Would also be thinking of replacing the boiler with a combi boiler as getting rid of the hot water tank and associated airing cupboard would allow a substantial bit of space to be added to our second bedroom. Any comments on combi boilers, heard about problems with water pressure??
We considered this when needed to move boiler. Have only ever had combis so can't compare but they're adequate for bog-standard 3/4 bed family homes. If it's in the loft the water pressure should be improved as not against gravity. But, some boiler engineers will not look at ones in a loft (allegedly) if it does not have a proper loft ladder and it is safe to walk around up there.
Thanks said, we have a loft ladder in place and the area that the boiler would be is boarded out , would just need to put a guide rail thingy by the hatch to make sure the engineer didn't fall backward when looking at the boiler
We did this 7 years ago now. The water pressure improved hugely, we don't have a combi as we were advised that that's better for showers but not for baths. We got British Gas to do the whole lot, i think it was about £6k? but we had some new radiators as well in that and got a 5 year Homecare thing.
Best thing was we then had room for a fridge in the kitchen!
I have always had combi boilers and never had a problem with the water pressure - they are much better than they used to be.
run the kitchen sink cold water tap into a bucket. Time it using the second hand of your watch. Calculate how many litres per minute it delivers.
This is the maximum amount of flow that you will get at any time from all the taps (hot and cold) in the house if you have a combi.
Filling a bath will use about 100 litres.
A combi-fed shower is usually good, but will the bath fill up in what you consider to be an acceptable time?
This is a very important question to ask if you are thinking of changing a tank-fed hw system to a combi.
If the flow is insufficient you can improve it by running a new water-main out to the street.
If there are likely to be two or more people running taps at the same time, the flow at each will be approximately halved.
having a boiler in a loft is rather tiresome, some people like to do it because they believe that the space gained will not get filled up with more
the point about gas engineers refusing to work in a loft if there is not a permanent secure means of access, good lighting and a safety rail is true. But you have the additional risk that since the loft is usually unheated, the boiler and its pipework will be at risk of freezing and bursting in cold weather.
You must also consider how to run the condensate pipe, preferably inside the house to an internal drain pipe. If it runs outside it will very likely freeze and block with ice in winter, and your boiler will then stop working. That happened a lot last year.
Thanks all, loads of useful information there pigletjohn.
Glad to hear it worked for you both christine and pepper.
Moving the boiler is defiantely on the cards for us but really need to think if the extra space we could get in the back bedroom by losing the airing cupboard is worth it
pigletjohn - that is exactly what happened to ours last winter - we had to lag the outside with an old towel in the end as British gas - who fitted it and failed to insulate it properly said they weren't insured to go up the ladder... the homecare bit covered the boiler itself being fixed though. But it was grim at the time.
I took great care, with my own, to put it in the corner of the kitchen right next to the plumbing stack and the indoor drain that the sink goes to.
No freezing for me!
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