New garage door - hinged or up and over?

[MrsMargoLeadbetter]

We need to replace our rotting wooden garage doors.

House is 1930s. They are wooden and side hinged with 2 rows of small windows at the top. The garage is attached to the house.

It is too small for our car to fit into, so it is used for storage only.

We have had a couple of quotes for metal replacements. Up and over are cheaper by a couple of hundred pounds.

However, we think side hinged will be easier for them to fit (ie we won't need to make room for the up and over mechanism) and more practical eg DCs could open themselves when they are older to get bikes out.

Aside from the cost savings, have I missed anything about up and over?

TIA

[PigletJohn]

hinged wooden will probably look more in keeping with the house, and i should think will last longer. U&O are quite lightly built, and have a more complex mechanism.

garage doors of the type you describe are still widely made and probably in a size to fit the existing aperture.

[wonkylegs]

I'd second a wooden door. We had a cheap u&o in my old house and it was a nightmare with the mechanism getting stuck. I think side opening will be easier for kids as I presume you don't have to open & close the whole thing to get bikes out. I also think timber ones look much smarter in the long run and can help keep value to your house as they are in keeping.

[JennyWren]

If you want to be able to fit your car in, think about roller doors - no mechanism at the sides so you gain five or six inches over an up and over style door.

[MrsMargoLeadbetter]

Hi

Sorry for my delay in getting back. Thanks for your thoughts.

Not that keen on wooden due to the upkeep, but the look is a consideration. Will price up.

Sounds like u & o are cheaper for a reason!

Thanks v much for your feedback.

[NorthernLurker]

We have an up and over in our 10 yr old house and it's fine but if I was replacing in a 1930s house I would go for hinged. It will look a lot better.

[PigletJohn]

as for upkeep, rather than paint, I treat mine with a dark brown shed-and-fence stain, which is water-based and leaves a coloured, waxy, water-repellent film on the wood. No need to sand it down, just slosh another coat or two on every five years or so with a big soft brush. If dirty, you can scrub it with warm water and a nylon broom before recoating, or blast it with a jetwasher. Some are not suited to smooth planed timber, but will adhere better after it has weathered.

I always treat my external timber with spirit-based Cuprinol Wood Preservative (not stain) first when new to protect against rot and insects.

[HintofBream]

I second JennyWren, rollers are great.