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Help! Does my Betta have fin rot?

(4 Posts)
Womanvslife Fri 21-Dec-18 10:38:56

I've attached two photos, one taken at the start of November and one taken yesterday. If you can see his top fin has started to go see through and not as blue as in the first picture...

So my question is, is this fin rot? And if so what do I use? I've brought melafix and aquarium salt but after googling I've heard both are really bad for Bettas so I don't know what to do?

He's in a 10L, heated and filtered tank which I do weekly 30% water changes.

Any advice would be much appreciated. Thank you!

Womanvslife Fri 21-Dec-18 10:40:27

Sorry pictures unloaded the wrong way round, first picture is the most recent...

Womanvslife Fri 21-Dec-18 10:45:30

29L tank not 10L! Sorry!

Karmin Sat 29-Dec-18 14:04:55

Yes it does look like it.

Usual Cause: Poor water quality or stress leading to a weakened immune system

Treatment: Depends on severity. Water change, Filter Change, Tropical Tank Temperatures, Antibiotics

Outlook: A full and healthy recovery is normal with fins growing back.

Be careful not to confuse fin rot with fin biting, tearing, or splitting. These are due to physical injury from boredom, fighting, or snagging sharp decor. You don’t want to medicate an otherwise healthy fish. The major difference here is the lack of white, red or black edges around the deterioration.

I would look carefully at your test kit to make sure everything is in balance, is there anything else in the tank? Fish/Porous Rock, new plastic? Vacuum the substrate and make sure you are not overfeeding, your Betta needs about as much as it's eye.

Cold water, high ammonia (>0 ppm) and nitrite levels (>0 ppm) and nitrate levels (>20 ppm) will increase stress and weaken a betta’s immune system.

Once the root cause is corrected, antibiotics will usually cure the disease itself.

1. Check your tank’s pH level and temperature. The ideal pH is between 6.5-7.5 and the temperature should be in the range of 78-81 degrees fahrenheit. Perform a 50% water change with fresh non-chlorinated/conditioned tap water.

2. When extracting the 50% of existing tank water, use a gravel vacuum to clean the substrate of excess food, feces, and other debris. If your tank is cycled (has a filter), clean it in the tank to preserve good bacteria and replace any media that is old. Wash all tank decorations in hot water (no soap). For community tanks that are overcrowded, consider relocating some inhabitants.

3. Continue to monitor your water parameters over the next week and check for signs of healing or worsening. It can be a slow process but as you cure the rot the brownish jagged ends will disappear with new fin growth following.

If treating in your regular tank, remove any carbon from filters as it will remove the medicine from the water.

Administer a recommended antibiotic in the tank following the instructions, and do not stop dosing early as this can create antibiotic-resistant bacteria. Perform 100% water changes before new doses to prevent overdosing. Recommended antibiotics to treat severe fin rot include: Maracyn II, API Fungus Cure, API Furan-2, Kanamycin.

After treatment you should see clear growths of new fin membrane starting to appear. New growths are very delicate so make sure you don’t have jagged tank decor or nippy tank mates. Fin rot can also come back after treatment and you may have to do additional treatments to keep it away for good.

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