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Moving to Dublin, advice please!

(42 Posts)
TheCatsJimjams Mon 15-May-17 22:43:07

Hi all,

DH has got a new job in the IFSC, beginning in September, so I'm trying to get a feel for where we'd like to live and what our budget is likely to be, given the need to factor in things we don't pay for in the UK, like health insurance (I know, not strictly necessary, but I have a condition which makes pregnancy very high risk so possibly advisable) and bins.

In terms of location, we'll be renting initially and I think looking to spend no more than €3000 per month for at least three bedrooms. We're moving from the rural north of England, where our nearest neighbours are sheep, so it's going to be a bit of a shock suddenly being within a reasonable commute of a major city. We're hoping to ameliorate that to some extent by being near the coast, so I'm thinking we'll end up somewhere on the DART line. Some friends of my parents live in Greystones and I think that would probably be ideal but DH is concerned about the length of commute and missing DS's bath time etc. Can anyone think of anywhere with a similar sort of coastal village vibe but closer to the IFSC? We will be travelling to West Cork regularly so we're thinking that the South side might make more sense but not really sure. I've looked at Bray, Dalkey, Sandymount, Sutton, Howth (in my dreams!), Malahide and Skerries...do any of those make more sense than others? We're hoping to stopover on our way over to West Cork in the summer but it'd be good to be able to try and narrow things down in advance. Any non-coastal suggestions would also be welcome, especially if they've got good access either to a really nice park or to really good rural walks, and reasonably short commutes.

I'd also appreciate thoughts on what sort of costs we should factor in, over and above our living costs in the UK.

Thanks in advance!

1bighappyfamily Wed 17-May-17 10:58:17

I live in the UK now but grew up in Dublin and since your post is going unanswered thought I'd respond!

Here's a good example of a house in Dalkey that would work for you.

I think Sandymount and Sutton might be a bit too urban giving where you're coming from and if your DH doesn't like the idea of the commute from Greystones, he's not going to like it from Bray, Malahide or Skerries either.

The house in the link is in Dalkey and is probably about 10 minutes walk, two minutes drive, from Dalkey village but is actually marginally closer to Glenageary Dart station. At the top of Saval Park Road is Killiney Park which is beautiful and where you can go to blow a few cobwebs away.

I grew up in Dalkey and it's a great place for young families. Plenty to do and lots of clubs and groups (although less than where I live in London). There are a good few options for schools - there are the very oversubscribed multi-denominational schools (Dalkey School Project & Monkstown Educate Together are the closest) or Loreto in Dalkey takes boys until the end of 1st class (Yr 2) and then they transfer (mostly) to the Harold School for Boys. There's also St Patrick's CoI School but I don't know anyone with children there - just in the others. If you want to go private, I know a few people who send their children to Castle Park and they're all very happy with it.

To be honest, I don't think the South Side or the North Side makes much of a difference for getting to West Cork! What you want is to be relatively close to the M50 and if you're in Dalkey, it's minutes away - you get onto it at Cherrywood. You're certainly better off there for that than in Sandymount or Sutton.

In terms of cost of living, I drop whenever I go back - it's expensive. I would want Health Insurance - just be aware also of what is NOT included (GP visits) but you can claim a lot back on tax. Will your husband not get that with his job though? Most big companies do - even if he has to pay towards it.

Oh, and you definitely have access to rural walks from Dalkey - the Wicklow mountains are 15 minutes drive away.

Remember I don't live there, so others will be able to offer more permanent living advice but I do know the area and I have lots of friends and family there so ask away!

TheCatsJimjams Wed 17-May-17 13:12:12

Thanks so much for getting back to me, I really appreciate it! Dalkey sounds great, and Killiney Park looks amazing! That house looks good, too, thank you. I've been scouring Daft and hadn't seen it so definitely need to stop relying on one app! Slightly weird question, but are there any areas of London you'd liken to Dalkey? Trying to get a feel for an area using the internet is pretty impossible and I'd like to get an idea.

I think DH is drawing a line at 40 minutes from Connolly, so am I right in thinking that Skerries would just about be okay?

Really worried that you're living in London and balking at the cost of living in Dublin! I think we're in for a shock! I'm not sure what the deal with a Health Insurance is going to be...it's not mentioned in his contract, would it be? Would it cover the whole family anyway, or just DH? How do GP visits work, if they're not covered? I'm sorry to pepper you with questions, it's all so anxiety-inducing!!

Thanks again!

Doza Wed 17-May-17 13:20:12

Would you consider Swords?
Cheaper than Malahide but not far from the coast, links easily to M50 for southbound trips, no rail link but very good bus links especially to IFSC, Swords Express is an excellent private bus but you can still use your Leapcard ( Dublin Bus/ Luas travelcard) and 41X is a good peaktime service.

Doza Wed 17-May-17 13:21:43

Oh and plenty of good schools and sports clubs, activities etc

Deemail Wed 17-May-17 13:23:14

Hi there, I'd advise you to post on the county Dublin forum on boards.ie hopefully you'll get more info there its a huge forum. Best of luck with the move.

HoosierDaddy Wed 17-May-17 13:28:34

We rent in Rathfarnham / Churchtown area. You can get a decent sized house with 3 beds for around 2500 per month. We're not on the coast but very close to 3 parks which are lovely. The Dodder River is beside us too, with walkways along it. We love it here, it's very quiet. We often go to Dun Laoghaire for a bit of sea air - about 20 mins away in the car. Getting to town from here is mainly on the bus, or if you lived closer to Dundrum, you could get Luas (the tram). I have no idea how long buses take these days but the Luas is about 20 mins frI'm Dundrum to St Stephens green (final stop). It would be another 20 mins (I am guessing) from there to ifsc on foot.

Doctors are pay per visit regardless of insurance - some policies let you claim back x amount. You are looking at 50-60 euro per visit.

1bighappyfamily Wed 17-May-17 14:00:44

Well, 40 minutes on the Dart and then the walking distance to home....Skerries is quite a big place. The house I showed you is probably a 10 minute walk (max) from Glenageary station. He has to bear that in mind.

Rathfarnham and Churchtown are lovely too. I don't know Swords as well (sorry Doza my mother "emigrated" from the northside when she married my father and I'm a full Southsider!)

You won't have Council tax or (if I understand correctly this week) water charges but you will have a local property tax which is a pittance in comparison to Council tax and bin charges. Although, actually, if you rent, I think the LPT is covered by the landlord (I own a flat in Dublin and I pay it!). The thing that really makes feel for Dublin friends is having to pay to go to the GP and the cost of prescriptions (although the latter is capped if you have an ongoing condition).

Groceries are more expensive, but they do now have Aldi & Lidl which makes life much easier I think - it's better than it was when I lived there 12 years ago. Public transport is about the same, taxis are about the same, petrol is a bit more, cars are a bit more, insurance is more. It's when you're going out that you really feel it. Eating out in decent places is more expensive, drinking is more expensive, going to the cinema is more expensive (although actually, the theatre and music is cheaper). Clubs for children are more - so where I'd pay a fiver for something here, it'd easily be €10 there.

BUT, and again, this is as a Southsider, you can't beat a Sunday morning stroll past the Forty Foot into Dun Laoghaire for Teddies ice cream. And the playground at Killiney Hill is gorgeous and doesn't cost a penny. Nor does the beach at White Rock......

Ooh - and Marlay Park! Further inland but my girls go nuts for the Fairy Tree. We make pilgrimages grin each time we're there.

Gah!! I've made myself homesick now!

1bighappyfamily Wed 17-May-17 14:02:24

And Dublin Zoo is fabulous and very good value if you book online and find deals.

And I love Imaginosity in Sandyford.

SnipSnipMrBurgess Wed 17-May-17 14:06:47

If you or your husbands work sign you up for health insurance you might not find the costs too back and with my laya healthcare I can claim back up to 75 percent of doctors fees. Also under 5's have a free gp visit card and you are free for all pregnancy services under the mother and child scheme which is public services.

140euro a month in child benefit per child too so that is worth looking into.

There is no way that Dublin is more expensive than London but it does cost. Shopping/food costs can be cut now with Aldi Lidl at and if you are renting you won't be eligible to pay for the local property tax

Lissette Wed 17-May-17 14:07:11

Waves to 1bighappyfamily - I grew up in Dalkey too!

I moved to Swords, then the UK with dh's job.

Might be able to help with some questions OP

Blackrock/ Monkstown good too

Feeling homesick now..

EmeraldIsle100 Wed 17-May-17 14:21:12

I lived in London donkeys years ago and am frantically trying to think of somewhere like Dalkey in London????? Dalkey is a stunning village by the sea in an extremely affulent area. There are great pubs and restaurants. The people are friendly and the scenery is beautiful.

I know nothing about rental costs or schools in the area.

When I lived in Dulwich it was a lovely village with friendly people, great pubs, restaurants, delies etc. In fact a lot of places in London were like villages once you got to know them. Realistically nowhere in Ireland is like London. The cultural diversity, transport system, job opportunities just don't compare. London is amazing but so is Dublin in it's own way.

WhatchaMaCalllit Wed 17-May-17 14:21:45

What would you think of Booterstown or Blackrock - both southside (of the river Liffey) and both on the Dart line for the commute into town?
The duration of the commute on the Dart wouldn't be as far as Greystones or even to Dalkey.

Booterstown has a number of schools, both primary & secondary in the area as does Blackrock.

Here is a sample of a house in that area around your budget: www.myhome.ie/rentals/brochure/hampton-crescent-st-helens-wood-booterstown-dublin-county/299232

Another suggestion would be Drumcondra or Fairview or Clontarf which are on the north side of the Liffey.
Here are a few sample suggestions for what you could get for your budget in these locations:
www.myhome.ie/rentals/brochure/walnut-lawn-courtlands-drumcondra-dublin-9/3972501
www.myhome.ie/rentals/brochure/kincora-court-clontarf-dublin-3/3945766

For this property in Swords, you would need a car but it's a lovely place:
www.myhome.ie/rentals/brochure/ashe-grove-knocksedan-swords-county-dublin/3259832

1bighappyfamily Wed 17-May-17 14:39:40

EmeraldIsle, Barnes, Hampstead, Richmond, Having lived in a number of those places, in terms of lifestyle (if not physical environment), I think they're probably comparable. (I don't live in any of them now by the way).

SnipSnip I don't think Dublin is more expensive than London but there are aspects that are pricey in comparison to the UK in general. Interestingly, according to the Economist they are there or thereabouts in terms of cost of living.

1bighappyfamily Wed 17-May-17 14:43:39

Sorry Emerald meant to add, I agree that London and Dublin are not the same in general, but having lived back in Ireland for a short period a couple of years ago, I found quite quickly that having the routine of small children means that the minutiae of day to day life isn't that different wherever you are!

NaturWilde Wed 17-May-17 14:45:33

Skerries also takes around half an hour on the DART and so around the same as Dalkey.

Skerries is just stunning, and north country Dublin had undoubtedly the best beaches - top secret though! Not as crowded as the south side beaches.

dustarr73 Wed 17-May-17 14:45:47

Clontarf would be great.Its about 15 minutes drive to the IFSC.And the other way is Howth,Malahide.The thing about Dublin is you're really not too far from the coast.Or the mountains,so it's good for a city.You have a lot of things on your door step.

WhatchaMaCalllit Wed 17-May-17 15:18:14

Clonskeagh is another good location to consider - not too far from Dundrum or Blackrock areas and close enough to the city centre too - your DH could even cycle to work if he wanted to from here!

www.myhome.ie/rentals/brochure/the-palms-clonskeagh-dublin-14/3911281

This is another place that is looking for €3.5k per month in rent (but the house is stunning!!!)
www.myhome.ie/rentals/brochure/grangebrook-avenue-rathfarnham-dublin-16/3102420

butterfly990 Wed 17-May-17 17:53:11

You would also be advised to look at

www.rollercoaster.ie/ (like mumsnet)

One thing to consider is to take your own car over (you have to have owned it for 6 months prior to your arrival) as buying a car in the South is expensive.

I used to live in Howth. It is lovely!

hollyisalovelyname Wed 17-May-17 20:36:53

Dalkey is really lovely.
That would be my choice.
Glenageary, Sandycove, the edge of Dun Laoire - Rosmeen Park/ Rosmeen Gardens. A friend lives there.

LivLemler Wed 17-May-17 21:25:26

Another south side vote here - grew up in Glenageary (Dalkey girls - wonder if we went to the same school?!), and Glenageary, Dalkey, Sandycove, Glasthule, Monkstown and the nicer bits of Dun Laoghaire are all fab.

As others have said, nothing like a weekend stroll along the pier with a Teddy's. Feeling all nostalgic even though I was home a couple of weeks ago!

Have a number of friends in Greystones, they love it and the cheaper (but still very very expensive) housing certainly made it worthwhile for them, along with family connections. But the commute would kill me. If I could afford both Dalkey and Greystones, it'd be Dalkey in a heartbeat for me.

I moved to the North as soon as I graduated so I've never really done the adult thing there, so will leave the financial advice to others!

Best of luck.

AppleMagic Wed 17-May-17 21:36:13

We lived in Dublin a few years ago. Lots of lovely areas been suggested. Just as a heads up, we lived relatively close to some of the areas mentioned above and really struggled to find a school place for our dd because she was unbaptised. Every school seemed to have different criteria and the ones which didn't have religious selection were very oversubscribed, name-down-at-birth arrangements. We moved away the June before she was due to start and didn't have a single offer of a place. I expect it's no more oversubscribed than London but it's a bit more complicated than just distance so worth investigating in detail before deciding on an area.

EmeraldIsle100 Thu 18-May-17 01:57:47

From what I hear Educate Together are getting more schools and my nieces and nephews are getting places. Maybe it's just around Dun Laoghaire etc but that is what I hear. You would definitely need to research it.

daro Thu 18-May-17 08:53:20

I work in the IFSC and live close to Dalkey (not close enough unfortunately :-) ) so feel free to PM me if you want.

WhatchaMaCalllit Thu 18-May-17 10:27:59

Unfortunately, there aren't enough Educate Together schools for the numbers of parents who want to send their children to them, so you are more likely to end up sending your child(ren) to schools with a Catholic ethos than there. The handing over of schools to multi-denominational or non-denominational Boards of Management is painfully slow.
Try not to let that be the deciding factor in where you end up moving to OP.
I live in Dublin 11 and work in the city centre. If you're considering a move to the northside, please feel free to pm me.

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