Full bust adjustment?

(9 Posts)
Mountsnowdon Sat 03-Jun-17 16:53:30

I have this pattern. I picked it because it is a wrap style and hopefully not too complicated to fit. Fairly novice dressmaker. Anyway how do I know if I need to do a full bust adjustment?

OP’s posts: |
jcscot Sat 03-Jun-17 22:33:21

Most sewing patterns from commercial companies are cut for a B cup. If you're bigger than that, you need to do a full bust adjustment. Your bust measurement will help determine the size but the fit will be altered if you're not a B cup.

As an aside, that pattern still requires a good degree of tailoring (pad stitching of the roll collar, interfacing etc). Gertie, the designer, is a fan of couture-esque sewing and her patterns reflect that.

If you look at her blog she has some useful turorials linked to her Butterick patterns.

Mountsnowdon Sun 04-Jun-17 08:29:34

Thank you for your reply. It does seem likely I will need to do a full bust adjustment then but I have a small back and large cup size so I hope I get it right. I found the pattern on her blog so will have a look through for her tutorials as well. Maybe there will be something useful on there.

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jcscot Sun 04-Jun-17 08:49:42

I also have a small back/larger bust - one way to check you cut the correct size is to measure across the back of the pattern piece at the underarm, and then measure yourself in the same place (remembering that the pattern piece will have seam allowances added).

So long as you're not having to grade between sizes (to compensate for larger/smaller hips/waist), the size closest to your body measurements is the one you cut, with a full bust adjustment for the front pieces.

The Colette patterms blog has some good videos and tutorials on FBA/SBA although their pattern line is cut for a C cup, not a B.

Mountsnowdon Sun 04-Jun-17 09:07:20

Thanks jcscot. I will have a go at doing that measurement as well. I also have this pattern. In their sizes I need a size 4 in the bust and a size 2 in the waist and hips. I thought I needed to grade between sizes here but should I actually be cutting a size 2 all over and doing the full bust adjustment instead. I'm just realising how much I don't know!

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Mountsnowdon Sun 04-Jun-17 09:07:59

Sorry forgot the photo.

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jcscot Mon 05-Jun-17 08:54:02

It depends! That pattern is from an independent designer, so the cutting block might be for larger than a B cup. Check the designer's website before you cut - especially if you're doing an FBA because you're a C cup.

No one's bust measurement is a complete circle. Some people have small backs and larger breasts, some have smaller breasts but broader backs but all of them could measure 34" around!

UsefulEustace Mon 05-Jun-17 09:05:22

IME time spent making a toile for the garment is seldom wasted, because I am not a standard size.

jcscot Mon 05-Jun-17 09:21:17

Definitely! When I started out, I used cheap cotton to check for fit etc.

Now, especially if I'm making something that's fully lined, I use the lining as my toile - mind you, I would only do that for me as I already know what adjustments I have to do to patterns most of the time to make them fit. If I was sewing for someone else, it would be differently

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