Easy casual/jersey dress pattern - Big boobs!

[starfish8]

Hi everyone

I'm thinking of coming back to dressmaking after a break. I'm fed up of the cost and quality of what you can buy in the shops.

I've had problems in the past with tops/dresses I've made, as I have to cut a larger size for my boobs (only 32F, but large compared to size 8/10 waist) and other proportions seem to be out. I'm not advanced enough to understand moving darts etc and adjusting patterns. I just want the pleasure of whipping up something easily that fits.

I'd like to find a good casual dress that I can make for wearing on the weekend, maybe in ponte di roma or cotton?

I've got the Tilly Coco dress from a couple of years ago but not done anything with it. I see she's bought out a new Bettine dress too.

Otherwise have come across this Burda Anda dress, and is more loose fitting on the top.

www.burdastyle.com/pattern_store/patterns/anda

Can anyone offer me any advice or recommendation of patterns that may be suitable or what they think of the above.

Thanks so much!

[ZippyNeedsFeeding]

The best knit dress for larger busts that I've come across is the Cashmerette Appleton dress. It's a wrap dress and is drafted with different cup sizes. It also doesn't gape at the neckline. I think it's rated as for advanced beginners. It is for sizes 12 upwards though, so you'd been to check the measurements or grade it down at the waist.
Tilly patterns can tend to be less good for the fuller bust. I tried one a while ago (I forget the name) and it had no shaping for the bust at all, so it was hopeless for me.

[starfish8]

Fantastic idea a dress pattern with cup sizes. Unfortunately the smallest size is 4" too big on the bust measurement for me :-( I might have a google around to see what other patterns I can find with a cup size taken into account.

[ZippyNeedsFeeding]

Loads of the major brands have patterns with cup sizes. Simplicity and McCall's definitely do.

[CatherineDeB]

If you learn to do a full bust adjustment you will be able to adapt any pattern you like.

Fit for real people is a good book or a craftsy class might help if you learn better that way.

Like this - there will be free resources on craftsy and online too.

www.craftsy.com/class/adjust-the-bust-the-complete-guide/375

[ZippyNeedsFeeding]

This is a good tutorial too:
curvysewingcollective.com/the-beginners-guide-full-bust-adjustment/

[starfish8]

Thanks. The whole thing scares me but will try to get my head around it!

[CatherineDeB]

Once you have done it once you will be fine OP. I presume that your shoulders/rib cage/arms etc are an 8/10 and you just need the FBA?

[CatherineDeB]

any good? as a jersey number?


this is the dress I have made the most, ever, probably a dozen of them since the pattern was launched. Very straightforward but would still need a FBA.

[ButtonLoon]

This pattern is great: kitschycoo.bigcartel.com/product/the-lady-skater-sewing-pattern-for-teens-and-women

And is easy to adjust for bust size, see this page: kitschycoo.blogspot.co.uk/2013/06/the-lady-skater-fitting-and-adjustments.html

I read a lot of sewing blogs before I made this one, and loads raved about her cheater bust adjustment.

[moggle]

I clicked on this thread to recommend the lady skater dress that ButtonLoon linked to too! I haven't made one for myself (yet) but just finished one for my toddler and it was lovely to make.

[starfish8]

CatherineDeB love your suggestions! I've not come across Merchant and Mills before! Had a mooch around and there are lots of dresses I like on there.

Like their shirt dress too... merchantandmills.com/products/patterns/dress-shirt-pattern-multi-size/

I might look like a dinner lady in the factory dress though!
merchantandmills.com/products/patterns/factory-dress-multi-size/

You're right, I'm a size 8/10 frame, with big boobs! (Pain in the backside when it comes to dressmaking!)

Looks like I really need to look into overcoming my fears of FBA!

Thanks also ButtonLoon re: Kitchycoo skater dress, not seen a pattern with two bust measurements before! Fab!

[CatherineDeB]

Pleased you like them starfish. I have got all the patterns from M&M and their books, the last one has a number of nice patterns in it. The only thing I haven't liked from them is the trapeze dress which was just too tent like in the fabric I made it in. I haven't made factory or shirt dress but got the patterns in the bundle.

I am about to make the Landgate in navy oilskin for my daughter, not quite sure about unlined oilskin though right now!

I love one of the dresses from the maker Buttons suggested (can't remember the name, short sleeves with a panel above the bust). Thanks Buttons, I am going to try that as my summer travel (screw it up in a backpack) dress.

[CatherineDeB]

Sorry, Button, not Buttons! The Comino Cap Dress, I really love it - just bought it!

[starfish8]

Hi again CatherineDeB, had a look at the links above for FBA, and they seem a bit beyond my level at the moment. Aside from the fact I have a toddler and am generally knackered, I need something easy to sew. Do you think the factory dress or any of their other dresses could be an option without FBA? I've got some curtain lining knocking around, so I could try making a toile in the 12 to test the fit? I buy 12 off the peg anyway, so can't imagine it would be that off if it's loose fitting?

[CatherineDeB]

They are quite roomy starfish. I would definitely give it a go in your lining,

I completely understand being overwhelmed by it, I never used to alter any patterns, just made it and wore it (no worse than shop bought fit generally), but in my old age I have become really fussy . Not that I need a FBA mind you but I even trace off my patterns these days which I would never have bothered doing before.

From memory M&M don't give finished garment measurements or ease measurements anywhere other than length, I will check and report back if they do but I remember thinking that was odd when I first started using them and I used to measure my pattern and work it out.

I am at home today, currently sticking the Comino Dress pattern together, I just said to DH, I am not sure it is that cost effective really - £7.20 plus 50 pages and time but worth it if I like it enough to make a few of them over the years.

I much prefer buying a paper pattern!

[frenchfancy]

You could try simplicity 1652 It comes in cup sizes. My DD who is a size 10 with 32G boobs recently made this using the D cup size. It is meant for a woven but she made it in a thick jersey and didn't both with the zip as it fits over her head. It is a great multi purpose dress.

She finished the arm holes and neck with bands rather than facings but that is just a personal choice.

[CatherineDeB]

Well, I have finished sticking the Comino dress together and i have to say that in my vast experience of printed pdf patterns ( 6 in total) it is the worst one I have ever done. Having done a quick search it isn't just me!

It didnt line up in about ten places, which is a lot! Hopefully sewing the thing will be a better experience.

[starfish8]

Oh no! What a shame! Fingers crossed for construction!

[CatherineDeB]

I have nearly finished it. Just the armhole binding to go. I like it but will blend the next one at the waist as I would prefer no seam there. Found it really generous size wise and will go down two, maybe three sizes next time, thank god for an over locker. I just kept whizzing bits off.

The neck was huuuuge! And I thought the worst, but once the binding was on it came together and is fine.

[starfish8]

Sounds like you've been a bloody star with it! :-)

[CatherineDeB]

This Cosimo dress might work for you Starfish. I only had a Ponte in my stash so used that but I think it would be better in something lighter weight. A nice shape and a quick sew. Next time I will do a plain bodice and blend the waist. You can't see much detail because it is black but the bottom photo is the bodice detail.

I would wear the Ponte one for work but a lighter weight patterned fabric would be good casual wear.

[gasman]

Anyone made collette myrtle.

It looks flattering to the larger bust.

[CatherineDeB]

There are some reviews that suggest it is - if you google it loads come up.

this one thinks it is good for a fuller bust.

I quite like it but am not sure about the elastic waistband for me (pear shaped).

[lifeofdino]

As well as buying the 'Fit for real people book' I also bought a Bravissimo dress from e-bay, I made sure it fit (it did, live a glove) and then took it apart and I'm using it as a sort of pattern block, it's been a cheats way of getting a pattern block when I have very little time. The fabric is thick and I've ironed it onto interfacing to help it keep it's shape.

Even if you don't get time to use the methods in the Fit for real people book it is still full of really useful information about why patterns are cut the way and to the size that they are.

[mimiasovitch]

I've a big bust and small waist, and have made several gazillion of the tiramisu dress. I don't suit straighter cut frocks and this one is the right amount of fitted and floaty. Plus I look tidy for work whilst feeling like I'm in my jimjams.