Have you heard of chainless foundation crochet?

[RiaOverTheRainbow]

I've just learned it and it's magic! I'll never crochet a bloody foundation chain again!

I learned from this blog and this video, but there's loads of others if they don't work for you.

Happy new year!

[CatsClaus]

yes, i have.

I have done it, but somehow, although it makes sense, and logically I see how it works I cannot get into my head how to do it without the pictures right in front of me!

[SoupDragon]

I love it - it is the best way to start a ripple blanket although you do have to concentrate on what you are doing!

It is one of several "tricks" I've learnt that I am delighted with.

[stillwearingaredribbon]

Love it
I never start with a chain any more

[seaweedhead]

Ooooo! I'm going to try this later.

[RiaOverTheRainbow]

It took me a few goes to figure out where exactly to crochet into on the previous stitch, having pictures of what it should look like helped a lot.

[WhoKnowsWhereTheMistletoes]

Yes, it's great. I have only done circular projects recently so would have to look it up again though. I'm a big fan of the magic circle for starting circles and squares too.

[SoupDragon]

I also love:
Invisible decreases for amigurumi,
Invisible finishing on blanket squares. Motifs etc
A couple of different ways to start a row without a turning chain

[FurFoxAke]

I found the no starting chain one on moogly which is easy, and really useful too, but am struggling to find a decent tutorial and/or video to show me a chainless ripple foundation.
Do you have any recommendations?

[SoupDragon]

I used and adapted!it in my head for the right number of increases and decreases for an attic24 ripple. Once you've mastered a straight one, it just involves thinking about whether the stitch you are making would have used it's own chain or the chain of the previous stitch.

[FurFoxAke]

Ok thank you!
I found getting the second of the decrease valley bit the most tricky! I could manage the one but not the other
Will have a good look later and have another bash at it.

[SoupDragon]

I did have to concentrate - each stitch I would mutter "chain then stitch" which kept me on track. It was a matter of thinking about whether the stitch should have chain of its own and then completing the stitch as normal, with or without the chain part.

It's definitely worth the extra concentration and the little bit more time it takes as the result is far better and there is no counting involved so you always end up with the right number of stitches.

[FurFoxAke]

Where/how did you do the second part of each decrease? This is where I'm getting confused. I can do the first one, but where to do the second one? I tried doing four into the one, but it seemed too pointy.
Will keep trying, it's worth it in the end.

[SoupDragon]

For the decrease, you need a chain for each stitch. So:

Stitch 1 - make the chain part, make the first part of the TC leaving 2 loops on the hook as for a normal decrease.
Stitch 2 - make the chain part, make the first part of the TC and then YO drawing through all loops as you would for a normal decrease.

Repeat for the second decrease pair. The second stitch of each pair needs a chain of its own.

[SoupDragon]

OTOH, each increase only needs one chain per pair so you need to remember where the chain is for each of the first of the pair.

Stitch 1 - compete the chain part then complete the TC part
Stitch 2 - make a TC in the chain you made for stitch 1

repeat for the second pair.

[FurFoxAke]

Aha! I might have left out the second chain!
Thank you for that!