To send my new oven back?(22 Posts)
new from John Lewis to replace whirlpool one who's heater element has broken.
We bought new integral oven to replace our old one. The electrician who was going to fit it firstly wasn't sure as 32v fuse rather than 40. Then he wasn't sure on the size of wiring and then said he needs to fit 13amp fuse socket. Once I agreed to this he told me I needed a whole new fuse box. The fuse box is a new one with RCD protection on lights and sockets, but not on cooker, boiler etc. he quoted 400 for this and I said I couldn't proceed. He said no one will install the oven without a new fuse box as it needs to meet regulations.
Is he correct? And I'm fed up and just want to send it back
Get a second opinion from another electrician.
have you tried asking john lewis? I've always found them extremely knowleable on anything i've asked about
dreaming so far John Lewis have been useless.
My house is only 4 year old so I'd have thought the electrics would be fine
Depending on its loading the oven could need either a 32A or 40A fuse, with appropriate wiring back to the consumer unit (fuse box). The handbook/installation instructions that came with the oven will most definitely specify what is required. If the electrician doesn't understand this basic principle then I wonder if he's properly qualified.
The 13A socket doesn't sound relevant. What did he say that is for?
If the CU is a modern one the various fuse/breaker modules will be replaceable and can be set to what is needed. It's unlikely to need replacing as a whole.
Was the old cooker connected to this unit and if so what fuse or breaker was fitted for it?
Can you post a picture of the CU with its cover opened so we can see the fuses?
Sallying thanks for post. I've since had another electrician out (friend) and spoken to BIL who is also a spark but miles away.
The 32amp is sufficient as a standard single oven and would only need 40 for something large like a range.
The unit doesn't need replacing but he can easily put the cooker on RCD and then no need for 13amp spur.
2.5 mm lead is fine from oven.
The way barratts did the wiring at the rear of oven is awful and literally hanging so he will sort that too.
He said it should be approx £35.
I'm so glad I didn't agree to the work the first electrician
cowboy was saying needed doing.
2·5mm is not sufficient for a 32 amp circuit. It needs to be 4mm.
Sorry, OP. I rushed into that.
According to the wiring regulations you should have 6mm for either 32A or 40A circuits
The appliance booklet states that it's minimum 2.5mm cabling (it's low power single fan oven).
just to check, when you say "oven" you do mean "oven" not "cooker?"
It is a single oven you say, not a double? Then if made for the UK market it will almost certainly have a load of 10Amps and can be run off a UK plug and socket. A dedicated circuit is preferable but not obligatory. The max power load should be mentioned in the instruction book and on a rating plate inside the oven door or possibly round the back.
Have you got an electric hob or a gas hob?
If you look at your "fusebox" it will have several breakers, and they should be marked things like "upstairs lights" "downstairs sockets." There will be letters and numbers on each breaker such as "B6" or "B32"
How many are there, and are there any blanks or gaps where an extra one could go? Is there one that says "cooker circuit" on it, and what letters and numbers does it have?i
most likely, if you have a 16th Edition split-load CU, which it sounds like, and it is by a major maker, it would be possible to upgrade the circuits which are not on an RCD for about £50 each by fitting RCBOs (a competent electrician will know this).
However there is no obligation to bring an old installation, which met regulations at the time it was installed, to meet newer regulations.
Otherwise we'd be fitting caviy walls and double glazing to St Paul's Cathedral.
Sally - it sounds sorted now.
It sounds like the oven will be fed off a 13A fuse from a 32A circuit. The max load on the oven cable from the FCU or plug will be limited to 13A by its fuse, so downstream of that, 1.25mm cable would do without rating factors, and 2.5mm has probably has been chosen to allow for ambient heat behind the oven.
If it was a big cooker coming straight off a 32A or 40A cooker circuit, then yes, 4mm or 6mm would be needed depending on length, method of installation and ambient temperature. Most people would fit 6mm as it is very common and saves calculation.
Glad it's sorted. The op called it an oven and mentioned 32A or 40A, which is why I said look in the handbook and queried the 13A / 2.5mm.
Thank you both . It's sorted, he did RCD and also installed oven and secured leads etc. He only asked for £30! I gave him £40.
Update: tried to use
fucking crap oven. A standard roasting tin doesn't fit! I changed to using ceramic JL one and the shelfs are so flimsy they've bowed. It is beyond useless . Am swapping for different one. At 380 for a single oven you'd think it'd be usable
That's terrible! JL branded goods are usually OK. Do you have a link to that model?
I can understand why you chose that. It looks good and the reviews are almost entirely positive.
Are you going to post a review?
I've posted a review and ordered this one. The review on John Lewis isn't great but the ones on Internet are very good
Yet the saga continues. I seriously doubt I will ever set foot in John Lewis again or online.
Latest letter to John Lewis
"Dear John Lewis
Thank you for your email. Further to my telephone conversation with John Lewis I had expected the delivery, installation and removal to be 'seamless', as was promised. I was also told I did not need to contact Samsung regarding their planned delivery for today, as John Lewis would liase directly with them.
Unsurprisingly this hasn't happened and I am now having to store the new oven in its packaging until the 15th October.
This is not ok for any customer, let alone one with a very young family. One is just learning to walk and another has autism. I had called to try and avert this situation.
The John Lewis brand oven we have is dangerous and the door gets extremely hot which is an issue as we have an open plan home.
The shelves do not have safety ends to stop tipping so both myself and my husband have been burned.
I am thoroughly disappointed with John Lewis and this is not the service that has been advertised by your company.
My husband is now having to be home from work for the 15th for the installation as I will be caring for my youngest children and will not be able to oversee the installation and removal.
This is yet another inconvenience from John Lewis. We have had to cancel several family parties due to the fact the internal size of the oven is so small we weren't able to cater for our guests.
Why on earth was such a simple thing, as purchasing an oven from what was my favourite company, become such a nightmare? We spent our gift vouchers from our marriage towards this oven, which we had planned to 'christen' with our 1st wedding anniversary meal. Totally disappointed.
Also the time scale has been beyond belief. This is just not good enough.
Yours sincerely and totally fed up
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