I love Lolly to bits but I really need to do this now. Its getting me down and I have enough shit to deal with.(53 Posts)
How in heavens name do I stop her pulling?
She had a harness but I was told they encourage pulling
I was still using it because it was far easier to control her but then she chewed it to bits
any advice on how to stop her chewing, stealing food and peeing indoors would also be greatly received
gets comfy with a bankie
lolly is lying on my feet right btw
Im sure she will listen to you
tries outthe weird writing thing on the app . Wales quite well . ish
come on you amazing doggy people
regarding the pulling, I kept mine on a very short lead and pulled down by my leg, she wasnt allowed to walk in front of me ever not even through the gate/door. After an age she stopped and just trotted by the side.
With the chewing, mine chewed through a wall in to the lounge! she hated being alone so I had to take her to my DGMs
With peeing indoor, I had mine from a puppy so was really on the ball with going out side to pee, would be out there a good hour with her till she did. In the end she knew as soon as she peed we would be able to get back in.
Cesar Malan was all the rage when I got mine so I got a lot from him and it seemed to work. My dog was a staffy - she still is, she just lives with my DGM now as she treats her like a bloody child and the two of the are inseparable !
sorry not much help but mine sits on my feet when im talking on phone or stood at the back door
Oh she also chewed my DGM specs the other day then stashed them as she new she would be in trouble!
Whenever she walks close to your side, click and treat immediately.
Before long she'll be waiting for the treat to appear.
Whether they pull or not on a harness depends on the harness. This one is designed to not encourage pulling and to have a calming affect on the dog Perfect Fit
Have a look on YouTube for Kikopup, loose lead walking.
I dont want her to constsntly at heel cause then how woukd she have a sniff around and choose where to pee and poop
we also are on country roads so I have her on an extendable lead to let her roam and sniff and have fun, just not bloody pull me along
that harness looks good
Extendable leads encourage pulling, because they are spring loaded there will always be pressure pulling the dog back, and because of oppositional reflex the dog will automatically pull against that force. A training line attached to a harness would be much better
she doesnt pull until she reaches the end of the extendable lead.
I wish I could have her off the lead
she used to love it so much
it doesnt feel like shes getting a proper walk on a lead
I walk my dog in a nose halter (from here: http://www.kjkropedogleads.co.uk/slip-halters.htm), it works really well and he walks so nicely in it. I went down this route after he pulled DD over in a flat collar and lead..... Best thing I did.
Hmmm, link here: www.kjkropedogleads.co.uk/slip-halters.htm
thanks horses. do you think that would be ok for a flappy lipped boxer
Google "loose leash walking Sophia Yin" - she has some fab video tutorials on how to teach it.
We have a 5 month old staffie x ridgeback who is very similar ie nearly dislocates your shoulder when walking on a lead (she chases squirrels). We do weekly training and my trainer advised me to try a gentle leader harness. It's one that goes round her muzzle and another bit high up round her neck by her ears. I'm really sorry but I can't link to it from an ipad, plus I'm in the USA and have no idea of stockists, although it's on amazon.com. He said that symmetrical harnesses can encourage pulling as it gives the dog something to pull against but muzzle harnesses throw dogs off balance as they pull on one side only, which dogs don't like.
It seems to be working pretty well. We are also doing loose leash walking in obedience class. We need lots more practice and will get there but would probably only ask her to walk to heel when we're in town etc or when children pass us. I don't want her to walk to heel on long walks in the park or quiet streets, she enjoys herself walking on an extendable lead and walks at her own stop - start pace which I don't mind. At least the gentle leader has made her more wary of tearing off at 100mph after wildlife...
Ps, no idea about the chewing, mine ate half a remote control this week, you should have seen the looks I got when I handed it over fora replacement at the cable tv office.....
Definitely get a Halti. Instant nice walking IME!
Totally agree with the halti advice
Even my young DS could handle my (then) young boisterous dalmatian with the halti on - that was 14 years ago & they were pretty new back then so the only downside was explaining that NO it wasn't a muzzle & he wasn't vicious ...
I would also about turn (180 degrees) every time he started pulling too much...
I used to find he would pull constantly until he had his first offlead run about - then would be a million times calmer for the rest of the walk.
That actually never got any better for all his life LOL
Awww gawd I miss him so much
I'd recommend a gentle leader, like a halting but without the tendency to ride up.
We're using a double ended lead attached to a Pets at Home harness for our rescue GSD X. One end clips to front of chest and other end to back, it really reduces pulling and makes it much easier to control sudden lunges. Also using clicker and rewarding dog for walking nicely. After 2 weeks there's been real improvement.
Canny collar (ebay) AMAZING, stopped my 12 stone newfoundland pulling instantly xxx
We've used haltis and they did work. However, I also know that quite a few people have had harnesses with a D ring at the front - which you attach the lead to - if they pull they then turn themselves around which doesn't get them where they want to be - and the people I have talked to have had very good results with that.
Peeing - how often do you take her out and do you have a 'word' you use to encourage her? We had to completely housetrain our rescue dog (2+) last autumn - to start with every 40 mins or so we were out with her on a lunge rein, standing quietly to see if she would sniff and potentially do what she was meant to do (lunge rein to stop her going investigating interesting smells in the garden rather than concentrating on what she should be doing) - and using the cue word too - high praise when she did what she was meant to out there. Lots of watching like a hawk and getting up to check everytime she left the room to make sure that she wasn't starting to circle...
Pulling: a front clip harness or a headcollar type lead (halti, gentle leader) will help you walk the dog so you can get her exercised without having your arms pulled out of their sockets. You then need to train her to walk by yourside. Start your walk and the moment she walks ahead of you stop and wait. Wait until she looks back at you (this can take a while) as soon as she looks at you click, treat, turn around and walk off (don't walk off in the original direction of travel). The moment she walks in front of you (usually immediately), stop and repeat. It is very boring but if you can keep this up for 2-3 weeks it does solve the problem. There are online videos that show you the technique (kikopup for example).
Soiling in the house: how old is she and how many opportunities does she have for going out? Have you excluded a medical problem like a UTI? If she's an adult dog treat her like a puppy, e.g. out after eating, waking up, playing and at least once every hour. Close off all doors, use baby gates and limit the space she has so you can supervise her when she is indoors. Does she soil when you are there or when you are away?
Chewing: give her loads of appropriate chews and restrict access to everything else.
Stealing food: work on her 'leave it' command and meanwhile don't give her the opportunity.
Are you going to training classes with her?
canny coller looks good
I've just been trying a halti and I dont like the lead being attached at the front, she just gets her leg over it and tangled in it
I would love to take her to classes but cant find any that aren't hundreds of pounds
she is is 2 in may
the chewing is getting a lot better as I get the house more sorted
she has a kong
and twice weekly large chew bones but she just eats them in minutes
she knows 'wee wee' means to wee and I can get her to do that outside
roughly hourly she is put on her string outside for that
and after she gets up, eats, etc
I don't leave her wandering the house or rather I try my bloody hardest not to but is tricky sometimes
like right now, I'm in the frontroom, so door is shut and she has to be here with me
we've just been to the vets and she has a womb infection, she is on antibiotics, would that cause extra weeing, trouble knowing if she needs to till it comes?
unfortunately the carpets and floorboards smell as dps old dog was incontinent so I don't think that is helping
the bin is a huge issue, she always tries to raid that if she has a tiny opportunity
thankyou everyone for your tips and advice
I'm going to try and canny collar next
she also has atrocious social behaviour
looks like fear aggression in my limited experience but makes her look aggressive which she is not
and if I ever get her settled and trained would I ever be able to have a cat or is it just not ever going to be an option with a massive, bouncy, chases things, dog? <light hearted> I've never realised how much I like cats
wow, that got long
Smell: you can get special disinfectant / shampoo from pet shops that gets rid of the smell so that would help with that bit.
Hope the collar helps with the pulling.
Fear aggression - I went to a training session with a very good behaviourist and there were several fear aggressive dogs there. His advice was to take the pressure off the dog and demonstrate to them that you're going to take the lead on any dog encounters - so get in front of your dog. One of the really interesting things was the impact that the lead had - if you hold a dog on a short tight lead (so you have lots of control) you often are bringing their head more up - into an aggressive location - and they feel trapped by the fact that they can't move - in the same situation, with the lead loose the dog didn't react as aggressively and simply tried to get away from the other dog - clearly a much better response.
I know other people have worked on the fear aggression by getting the dog to do something else rather than look at the dog - and treat heavily for it - clicker training might help make this an instant positive so she knew what she was doing right... ie dog in distance, Lolly looking at it - you ask her to look at you, and click the instant she does and treat her.
Sprinkle bi carb over the wee'd on patches, leave for as long as possible (until completely dry), then vacuum up. Repeat if necessary, but it eats the odour and is cheap and child/animal friendly!
We use a halti but clip it to our dog's normal lead as well which means she doesn't get tangled up in it. It stops her pulling perfectly. Good luck!
Don't get the canny collar - get the Premier Easy Walk Harness - it's blummin' amazing and saved my dog from being rehomed.
Chewing is a problem - but buy a Stag Bar - they are stag antlers and last for months! We also use cow hooves they are long lasting.
yup we have an antler, she loves it and a large real bone that has lasted for ever and she still loves it but she will chew up anything that she finds if left alone with it for a bit
we try not to leave her alone at all but not possibly to never leave her
The canny collar is fab. My lab hated the halti and just got the lead between her teeth as it came from underneath. She walks like a dream on the canny collar.
with the loose lead thing and fear aggression
if she is on a loose lead or extendable then she will bark and stand her ground until they get close enough to reach (dog, bike, person, car, ANYTHING) and then jump up all over them, tail wagging, bouncing like a twat, really bloody strong all feet and wet face
on a tight lead is the only way I can stop her bouncing all over people and muddying coats, accidently scratching with her big claws and knocking people over
seriously I need a trainer
<buys lottery ticket>
Can you go to training classes rather than get a private trainer?
Do NOT Go to anyone who is a dominance trainer, or uses the words "Dog Whisperer"
The Kennel Club training classes are great.
It was a class I found that was 170 pound for 6 classes
I definitely avoid dog whisperers of dominance people
That sounds extortionate. Training classes are generally much more reasonably priced and invaluable for most dog owners (the exception is dogs that have serious aggression issues and are best dealt with on a one to one basis). A good training class should be able to answer most of your questions and give you skills to deal with problems.
Have you looked on here: www.apdt.co.uk/
They use positive reinforcement methods and have members all over the country.
What area are you in Trinity? I can have a look round for you and find a decent class. I paid £70 for 8 hour long lessons over 8 weeks. The classes had a maximum of 8 dogs in each session with two trainers and two assistant trainers on staff. So pretty much 2 dogs per member of staff. Not one to one but almost as good
The trainers were both APDT and all of them were members of the PPG.
thanks booboo, i'll have a look
I'm near Gretna in Dumfries and Galloway
LilCamper that sounds fab
Go to training class
Honestly, I have the most bonkers dog at mine but it does help
I pay 7 pound a session in the home counties darling
If you haven't already bought a collar, I have a gentle leader you can try for free. If you pm me your details I'll send it to you. I've had similar massive issues with a Staffie I rescued last year and my biggest 'learn' has been that I needed to have loads more confidence and loads, loads more patience. I wanted an instant fix, especially with the lead pulling and pulling/trying to run towards other dogs, oh and all the damage related to his terrible separation anxiety, but the only cure is patience and time (with the right advice of course)!
Let me know if you're interested.
oh sexbomb, that would be fabulous
I am struggling on with the halti at the moment but she really isn't liking it cause she keeps getting her foot caught in it
thankyou so much
My lab will be 2 in May. This time last year i was at the end of my tether with her behaviour but then we started obedience classes (£70 for 10 weeks) We did two lots so 20 weeks in total. She is like a different dog now.
The boxer in our class (yours is a boxer isn't she?) was the best at picking things up and was a bit of a star. Very clever dogs.
I still train, train then train again with my dog. It is part of our daily routine. Everything is a training opportunity. I am currently working on 'look at me' to keep her focussed when walking on the lead and so she is not looking at other dogs/cyclists/joggers/cats/sheep/ducks etc.
I would say training classes would be your saviour. Keep looking for ones locally. Good luck.
that gives me hope
Don't use a halti or a gentle leader with an extending lead though as it can really hurt a dog if they run to the end of the lead and then their head is yanked sideways.
My dogs all pull, especially my spaniel who was getting better until I taught him to pull for tracking
numpty at the same time I also taught him to go over a 5ft scale resulting in me having to erect a 6ft fence in my garden double numpty
With the foot catching thing, as has already been said, I wouldn't use it with the extendi, or rather, not with the lead extended iyswim. I used it to get to and from the area where I let him run looser, and then swapped to an ordinary collar for that.
She sounds just like Kenny in the way she is with other dogs. We think he was taken away from his litter way too early, so didn't learn how to 'be' around other dogs, and then was never socialised when growing up. He wasn't aggressive, but when other dogs see a staffie galloping towards them full tilt mouth wide open in a grin, toungue a flutter, or straining at the end of a lead looking like that, they tend to feel panicky and react, and so it spirals.
I realised that I was so terrified that he was going to be a aggressive (Staffie prejudice) as soon as I saw other dogs I was panicking and waving them away and calling him in a panicky voice and that made him think that I was frightened ergo other dogs must be something to be scared of and so he needed to defend me.
This one time when we were playing and a loose dog came out of nowhere and approached us, I pulled him close to me on a short lead and kept constantly reassuring him 'good boy' good boy and he allowed the dog to approach and sniff him so i kept up the constant praise as well as saying hello to the other dog. when the dog came round to face him he jumped at it just a bit, so I pulled him back and calmly but firmly said no, and the dog went back to the rear end which Kenny coped with, again each time he started to go for the other dog (whenever he got in Kenny's face) I just pulled him back and said a firm no. This was a real miracle and a turning point for us and was all down to how I reacted with Kenny and the other dog, and this had a radical effect on his behaviour. I kept this up any time we encountered loose dogs, looking forward to it as a way to help modify Kenny's behavious instead of being terrified of it.
I have been doing this for about 4-5 months now, and if we are alone in the fields, I will let him off and we play ball which he loves. If we see a dog now, I calmly call him to me and put his lead on, but continue to play ball, and he mostly ignores other dogs. There have even been a couple of occasions when he has spotted other dogs before me, but hasn't attempted to run to them, just brought me the ball! Result. I still wouldn't let him off in a park full of other dogs, but I think that there may come a time when I can, I feel that positive about it, and yet have come from a place feeling exactly as you do.
Sorry it's so long, and I've parcelled up the gentle leader, will post it on MOnday. Hth.
sexbomb sounds like all your hard work is paying off with Kenny which is fantastic. When reading your post, it's so easy to understand how Staffies could get a reputation as a scary dog when, in fact, it's something else completely!
How is he doing with separation? I remember posts when he was chewing like a madman when left - any improvement on that? Fingers crossed the answer is yes
yes he is so, so much better. We had a dog door fitted to the kitchen door so that he can get out into the (totally secured, totally walled in by other houses) back yard. That seems to help. We have a dap diffuser in the hallway by the front door, and I leave my bedroom door tied open (so that he can't get trapped which is when he panics and chews) and he seems to feel safe if he can sleep on my bed. He still gets his lead out of the basket by the front door and takes it into the sitting room, with my wellies as well as a new development, as if to say, look what you forgot to take with you, my lead, your wellies and me!!!!!!
Thanks for asking, it has been a very tough, exhausting, expensive, emotional year, but it is reallly now starting to pay off and people stop me in the street to comment on how handsome and well behaved he is, and our post lady loves it when she has a parcel for us so she can knock the door and have a fuss. She wants to take him home.
In fact, this week, whilst Kenny was standing at the front door lapping up some love from said post lady, I was suddenly aware that he seemed very fascinated with something outside the door and to the left. He wasn't restrained in any way, and I peeped out to see our neighbour from a few doors up with her border terrier on a lead, waiting to come by. He could have dashed out and gone hell for leather for this dog (all love but as we said, scary looking) but he just waited to see what I was going to do. I just crouched and held him gently around his neck whilst they walked by. Miracle. So there are happy endings, it just takes time.
oh sex bomb, I wish I could manage that with Lolly
you're so right about the running like mad towards other dogs, mouth open, tongue flapping can look frightening for other dogs...and other owners
lolly is big and very bouncy and strong
You will! How long have you had her? What breed? New pics on my profile by the way if you fancy seeing my handsome boys.
we got her in August 2012 when she was 12 weeks
she's a white boxer and gorgeous
Bless she sounds gorgeous. That's the flippin problem isn't it, they capture us hook line and sinker and then proceed to ruin us!!!!
Join the discussion
Please login first.