Oiled oak kitchen - how do you keep the wood clean and lovely?

[Springforward]

As part of the ongoing refurbishment of the hole we've bought, we've just had a new kitchen fitted. The doors are made of oiled oak frames with a veneered centre panel, and the exposed ends of the cupboards are also veneered.

Any ideas on the best way to clean it and treat it, without wrecking it? Fitter said we should use Danish oil on it every now and again, but not how often or how, and can I use that on the veneered bits too? Also, what can I clean it with on a weekly basis - can I just use a wrung out cloth with soapy water?

Looks lovely, but slightly wishing we had gone for a lacquered finish instead.... Any suggestions gratefully received!

[nearlyuptheduff]

I will be interested to see responses on this one too. I am in the same boat. Just oiled my worktops and they look great BUT they do get dull over time. I'd love to know what I can use on them that will ensure they are properly clean but will not affect the look of the wood.

[mascarpone]

We try to do our oiled oak work top every 6 months. We lightly sand it first then apply the oil with a soft cloth working in the direction of the grain. We do several coats until it isn't sinking in anymore. Then leave it overnight. First thing the following morning I wipe off any excess with kitchen towel. We've realised that the key is not to let the oil spill anywhere you don't want it. Once it has dried it's hard to get off so one of our lovely cream cabinet doors has an oil dribble down the front

[Springforward]

Food for thought - thank you. I do like the idea of using wax, wonder if the veneered bits would be ok with that?

[Springforward]

It's real oak veneer, so i didn't want to sand it too much.

Does the wax form a good enough seal for water to bead, and does it change the colour of the wood?

[PigletJohn]

for house doors which are veneered, the makers usually say "These doors are not suitable for treatment with any type of oil, wax or polish". I think it may make the veneer lift.

See what your kitchen manufacturer says.

[Springforward]

That's what i thought, tbh. I think i might try to find the manufacturer rather than the supplier/ fitter.

If we wanted to varnish them, any idea what we should be thinking of?

[PigletJohn]

satin polyurathene varnish is very durable and looks good. Avoid tinted finishes.

gloss varnish is called "toffee apple" for a reason.

[Springforward]

The kitchen people are, at our request, coming back after the hols to look at our doors - when we spoke to the bloke in the office, he seemed a bit surprised the fitter hadn't left us a jar of danish oil, so I'm actually wondering if we were supposed to oil it again ourselves soon after fitting. Our doors don't feel at smooth and sealed as the showroom ones, so am really wondering if something has gone awry here....

PigletJohn, is satin polyurethene varnish difficult to use?

[PigletJohn]

I don't think so. You apply a couple of thin coats, after sanding lightly if necessary, and cleaning and degreasing the wood very thoroughly, and vacuuming off any dust or hairs. It is easier if you can lay the doors flat (after doing all the edges) as this prevents runs.

You need a soft, good brush with plenty of bristles that has never been used for paint, you will probably feel comfortable with a 40mm wide brush, 50mm max.

Ronson is good, they call it "Diamond" I think. I use Wickes own-brand which is cheaper.

[Springforward]

Thank you - could i just use dilute fairy for degreasing, or is something more complicated necessary?

Happ Christmas btw!

[PigletJohn]

white spirit.

[Springforward]

Possibly a stupid question, but would that take the colour out of the oiled wood?

[Springforward]

Just thought I would pop back to update. We reoiled the doors and used a satin polyurethane varnish on the veneered bits, and I do now have a wipe-clean kitchen, which I am very pleased with. The varnish really makes the grain stand out more strongly, which I really like. I think we might do the doors too, to make it low-maintenance. Thanks for the advice, PigletJohn, much appreciated!

[MuchBrighterNow]

Do not varnish if they have already been oiled. I would suggest getting a good quality neutral colour furniture wax and waxing them .
Re oil them with danish oil every 6 months.

Ideally new wood or wood veneer should have 2 to 3 coats of danish oil applied over a few days with at least 24 hours to dry in between coats. Dansih oil has hardeners in which give a protection against spillages.

To build up a beautiful finish for new wood you should ideally wax once a day for a week once a week for a month and then once a month for ever more !

OOps just saw your last post !!! Too late .. Varnish is certainly less work but not nearly as beautiful as well cared for oiled and waxed wood. I hope it sticks long term if the wood has already been oiled underneath

[Springforward]

We took advice from the manufacturers of both the kitchen and the oil/varnish before doing anything, and the joinery firm who fitted the kitchen did the varnishing under their own warranty, so we're as confident as we can be that it will be ok.

Interestingly we were warned off using wax on the veneers, they advised it may lift them.

[VicklePickle]

I do the same as Mascarpone. Applying oil or treatments just before bed means the product has time to dry and it reduces inconvenience.

[VicklePickle]

I do the same as Mascarpone. Applying oil or treatments just before bed means the product has time to dry and it reduces inconvenience.

[PigletJohn]

incidentally, if you have oiled wood in the kitchen, it is important to use the cooker extractor hood a lot. The greasy cooking film will combine with the oiled surface and be very difficult to remove once it goes hard or sticky.