Trying a 1970s pattern but the sizing is completely off - any suggestions

[Katymac]

It's very pretty but it says it is a size 12

The actual pattern measures bust 42, waist 40

I am 42, 32, 40 - so if I added seam allowances it would 'fit'

But there are those rather full pleats/darts at the waist (approx 1.25 inches each) so I imagine that would take it down from 40 to 30 so I'd need to make the waist at least 2 inches bigger or reduce the sizes of the darts (or both)?

Or shoud I just look for a modern pattern?

[Katymac]

& possibly a full bust adjustment too

[Sadik]

My experience of older patterns is that they come up very small compared to modern sizing, particularly on the waist.

I'm a small size 8 in modern terms (32 / 25 / 34), but last time I made a dress from a vintage pattern I had to start with the size 12 in order to make it large enough at the waist, and reduce elsewhere - and not by as much as you'd think - to make it fit me.

Overall unless you specifically love that pattern, I'd be inclined to look for a modern one, just because body shapes have changed.

[Katymac]

I just want one I can start now while I have energy/inclination

I am searching my downloadable stuff to see if I can find something

[Katymac]

Going to make a toile & see how it ....I can always scrap it & start again tomorrow with a modern pattern

[Sadik]

Makes sense - you can probably tweak a bit anyway if needed, given that you've got the base shape to work with

[Katymac]

The toile fits!!

the only change I will make on my estimate is that the front is a little low for me so I will shorten the shoulder straps at the front and start the darts about 1-.5 inches lower to allow for that

The back is perfect!

Shit that was a good call!!

[Katymac]

Normally I have to do about 8 versions or something!!

[FormerlyCatherineDeB]

Phew Katymac, you are a fast worker .

[Katymac]

I've been quite depressed and not sewing so while I am in the mood I must sew!!

I totally misunderstood how to increase the size & changed it when I cut the material - because I added the extra material in the middle for the toile the neckline & shoulders were all a bit off - so I evened it out and only added 1cm on each edge

It does make me wonder about vanity sizing as no way should this come near me!!

I've got the basic dress cut out but not the facings or the sleeves

& I've got up early to pattern match the front seam, then I'm going to measure the darts so they all match -- but they are about 4 inches lower on me because of my boobs

So far I've just tacked it all together, but I'm not sure how to finish the seams - this is the first tailored thing I have done for years & I'm not sure I want to use the over locker

After I have a cup of tea

[FormerlyCatherineDeB]

, glad you feel able to sew. I always understood that patterns were still made to the old British Standard and apart from the new generation of pattern makers that they hadn't changed, hence most people have to size up when sewing as opposed to buying rtw clothes.

[Katymac]

I am at least a 16 on my measurements - possibly an 18

SO it's daft!!

But I thought so too (about the sizing) & I certainly didn't fit into many vintage clothing!!

It's plenty big enough for me - I may just do 3 of the darts rather than 4 - but it's lovely.....as long as I do it right

[Katymac]

French seams I think

[jesterkat]

Was just going to say French seams they always add that little bit extra to the finish. Plus it gives you a future option to unpick and resew a smidge bigger if required! Love my back fat (not)!

[Katymac]

I have had to increase the darts in the back by about 3 inches because my back isn't fat just my boobs

About to cut the sleeves now - I am really bad at setting sleeves - do I do a french seam on them too? How?

[Sadik]

Wow - fast working :) Looking forward to pics of the dress . . .

Youtube is always my go-to for that "damn, can't quite remember how to do X" moment half way through a pattern

[Katymac]

The sleeves are sitting surprisingly well

But the facings are NOT! I am cross - I think I may have a little lie down & then have another go