Is there anyway to tell if a dress pattern will come out true to size?

[Katymac]

Or is it just guess work & fitting

I have a new 'New Look' pattern & I'm trying to decide

I feel a toile coming on (is that the right word )

[fortifiedwithtea]

I'm going to assume because the pattern is New Look this is not a dance pattern and we are not dealing with negative ease. Measure yourself/person you are making for compare against pattern envelope for finished measures and the difference is the amount of ease.

New Look is one of the big pattern manufacturers that base their bodice sloper on a B bra cup. If you are different from a B then yes you will have to do an alteration.

[Katymac]

I made a toile - only for the top as the skirt is easy I hope

Nope just an ordinary dress pattern - I tend just to dive in & have a go but I knew it would be tricky

I started with an 16 but next time I'll start with an 18

The sides were too short as was the whole bodice - too short in length - possibly because I'm a G cup....oops

But I think I have it fitting OK now - my mum is coming to check the fit this evening then it's the skirt


However I am struggling with finishing the seams - i want it too look nearly as nice on the inside (if you know what I mean) - I can google but I don't really know what I am looking for, is there some sort of special seam I should look out for? (I may end up lining it instead)

[Katymac]

Thank you

ps what is negative ease?

[CatherineDeB]

Negative ease is a garment that measures smaller than you do to give a tight fit.

What sort of fabric is it. If any fabric is lightweight enough to take a french seam that is my preference - just looks lovely. All my (not that many) posh, fairly lightweight clothes have french seams.

[CatherineDeB]

Have you thought of a craftsy class - annoying accents generally but I did the sloper ones and found them useful - sadly not free.

fitting solo

[fortifiedwithtea]

Hi Katy, negative ease has been explained already by Catherine.

The G cups are throwing the fit out. You need to do a full bust alteration. An excellent book that explains alterations is Fit For Real People by Jeannette Schilling.

[Katymac]

Yes - my boobs are a nightmare - I think I have adjusted it on this pattern by making big & tweaking - but if there is an actual method I'll have a look & see

I think I'm currently struggling with the whole making something vs following a pattern & also I've been making child's clothes and leotards for years. Combined with making for 'sale' rather than for stage it's left me a bit insecure iykwim

French seam - yes that is what I am remembering Thank you

[CatherineDeB]

There is so much info online these days Katy, not that I have ever done a FBA because I am a B cup (probably the only thing about me that could be classed as remotely 'normal')

craftsy full bust adjustment

[Katymac]

Using those measurements I'm only a DD (or maybe an E if I want to breath)

Where as bra wise I wear a 32 FF or G or GG depending on fit

Ah well at least I'm good at Maths

[Katymac]

That is actually very similar to what I did except I worked down from a size up rather than up from a size down

I wonder if there is a difference.geometrically speaking

[CatherineDeB]

Great job . Top marks!!!

I find it tedious getting fit right for the first time. Sometimes I like the challenge, other times I find it a pita!

[Katymac]

I thought it easier to cut away fabric/take tucks rather than add bits

DD is so much easier to make for & Lycra is so much easier

[Katymac]

I'm also lengthening the sleeves & I can see how one of those lovely clear plastic curvy things would be useful

Freehand curve are hard!!

[CatherineDeB]

I have got one Katy - very useful. Like most things, another expense, but then you only buy it once, mine is ancient.

I bet you can get one for a couple of quid on eBay.

[Katymac]

What are they called?

Actually you know by the time I have changed the skirt, lengthened the sleeves & adjusted the bust, there wasn't much point using this pattern was there?

But the bodice is pretty here & so is this skirt (although I am adjusting that too

[CatherineDeB]

French Curve

I have got one of the sew easy ones but some of the others are cheaper.

www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Dkitchen&field-keywords=sewing%20curve&tag=mumsnet&ascsubtag=mnforum-21

[frenchfancy]

For future use:

This is a good tutorial on doing an FBA on a bodice without a dart www.cashmerette.com/2014/04/do-full-bust-adjustment-and-add-dart-on.html

And this one for a bodice with darts: curvysewingcollective.com/the-beginners-guide-full-bust-adjustment/

Another tip - check your bust point before you do an FBA, often the problem is the bust point is too high on the pattern and lowering it can solve the problem.

And here is a lesson on how to neatly finish seams if you don't have a serger (overlocker) www.seasonedhomemaker.com/finish-seams-without-a-serger/

[TellMeDani]

I would second the Fit for real people book, it was a game changer for me (also blessed with the need do a FBA). Even before you get to the fitting part the book is full of loads of information about patterns and fit.

You do have to see past the rather outdated cover though!

[Katymac]

I think I could spend more time reading about sewing than sewing - but tbh lots is coming back to me now I am actively doing it again

[[http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/30-40-60-CM-Flexible-Curve-Ruler-Drawing-Paint-Draw-Bendy-French-Curve-Drafting-/371575341334?var=&hash=item56839dc116:m:mVk9CG7d5oTpDdi0obFJAtA this looks fun) & cheap too

[frenchfancy]

Fit for real people is a good book (very outdated photos though) but I just can't get on with tissue fitting. i have no one to help me and cant handle the tissue alone, so resort to toiles or custom fit patterns (Lekala).

[Katymac]

Will I need that if I get my dummy to be the right shape?

I don't mind buying it (I wonder if it's in at the library) as it's only £15ish

[Katymac]

Mind you getting the dummy the right shape is being challenging - I'd like a 3D printer I think

[CatherineDeB]

Ann Ladbury is an oldie but a good person's books to buy. I have got some of her books that were my mother's.

Improve your dressmaking is good (and only £2.81).

www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=ann%20ladbury&tag=mumsnet&ascsubtag=mnforum-21

[Katymac]

OK I have bought 2 books now & a bendy rule nothing else until I make some money!!

I should have been sewing tonight - but instead I have been reading and spending money

Never mind there is always tomorrow

[TellMeDani]

Lekala looks good French, have you found somewhere to print the pattern for you in one wide piece? I'm not sure if I could cope with printing at home and sticking.

My excuse for buying books is that it's easier than going on a course.