Dressmaking. HEEEELLLPPPP!

(49 Posts)
SaggyOldClothCatPuss Mon 29-Apr-13 19:33:17

Right. Ive made costumes and things in the past, from scratch, just improvising and pinning stuff on the kids. Since watching the Sewing Bee, Ive bought a pattern, and am going to run up ha ha a dress for DD14. Got the pattern, got the fabric, this is where it gets confusing! grin
I have measured DD. Her teeny bust is 31 inches. Her waist is 27 inches, her hips are 34 inches. Which, according to the chart on the pattern makes her a size 8 bust, size 14 waist and size 10 hips! confused I measured her bust and hips at the widest bits and her waist at the smallest point.
So. If I make her a size 8 dress, which has a fairly empire line waist and flared skirt, is it going to fit?? And if not, what do I do?
confused
It is this pattern.

SaggyOldClothCatPuss Mon 29-Apr-13 19:35:33

FWIW, my lovely DD is in no way deformed. To look at she is dead slim, fairly straight up and down with a few curves developing. She is really paranoid now! confused sad

EffieTheDuck Mon 29-Apr-13 19:39:41

That is a lovely dress and looks fairly forgiving size wise.
could you cut the top to the 10 size, the skirt one size up and it does not have a waist so you could make extra darts in the bustline?

<waits for the sewing experts to finish their tea>grin

SaggyOldClothCatPuss Mon 29-Apr-13 19:42:30

Well I could, but she really is somewhere between a 6 and an eight in her top, and would never wear a size 10.
<<befuddled>>

orangeandemons Mon 29-Apr-13 19:45:57

But if it's empire line it doesn't really matter what the waist measurement is. It's the under bust measurement that would count.

EffieTheDuck Mon 29-Apr-13 19:46:22

The dress does not have a waist so i'm wondering if you could cut out 8 on the top then the 10 for the skirt and adjust the hell out of it once it is on

SaggyOldClothCatPuss Mon 29-Apr-13 19:51:30

Ah fuckit! I am just going to make the 8! She is 5' weighs 7 stone and is like a streak of wind! She has never worm a size 10 anything!That pattern has pleats at the top of the skirt and plenty of spare material! Then Im going to stick to seperates! grin

DameFanny Mon 29-Apr-13 19:51:39

Lay out the pattern pieces and see how you can fit her measurements going line to line with the tape measure, and including your seam allowances.

Also google Gertie's New Blog For Better Sewing - lots of pattern sizing goodness there.

How about making one from calico to see what it is like and if you need to make alterations before you use the pretty material?

Soupa Mon 29-Apr-13 20:04:39

The 8 will be fine (big...possibly). The 10 I reckon would be huuuuuuge.

I would if you can, make it up in calico (if using expensive fabric) like practicallyperfectnot said and cut it to fit her chest size, tapering to a size 10. Let us know how you get on.

SaggyOldClothCatPuss Mon 29-Apr-13 21:14:40

CRIKEY! Would an old cut up duvet cover do? confused

yes, it just helps get a better fit - we will put you forward for the next series of the sewing bee!

SaggyOldClothCatPuss Mon 29-Apr-13 21:22:34

Lol! I think I have a Star Wars one going spare somewhere! It would be SOOO much easier without a pattern!

DalaHorse Mon 29-Apr-13 21:28:08

This is very easy. It is only fitted around the shoulders/bust. The waist and hips are free-fitting. Therefore you only need to fit it around the bust. Only if she had a size 14 bottom would you be more careful incase the dress is slightly more fitted than it appears, but she has a size 10 bottom for a free-fitting pattern - there's no problem cutting it all in size 8 :-)

However. If she is very narrow/young, shoulders-wise you may find that the neckline is too wide on this dress, and it drops off her shoulders. I would therefore make up just the top section in some basic cotton fabric to check the fit. If the shoulders are indeed set too far apart, you can take it in. The front bust panel piece of fabric is likely to be cut on the folded fabric. Overhang the pattern on the fold by perhaps 1/2 inch, so the width of the panel is reduced width-wise overall by 1" when the cut fabric piece is unfolded.

For the back panel, that sort of pattern is likely to have a centre back zip. Overhang the pattern on the fabric by 1/2 inch each piece again, so again, the overall width of the two back panel pieces is reduced by 1" overall.

But first thing to do is make a mock-up (known as a "toile") to check fit initially. Good luck! It's a lovely dress!

GettingObsessive Mon 29-Apr-13 21:39:27

FWIW I find that sewing patterns are often huuuuuge and I often have to adjust down, even if I ignore the supposed measurements and just cut for my usual size.

orangeandemons Mon 29-Apr-13 21:50:36

I'm not sure it is free fitting. It has pleats which can gape if they don't lay flat.

TwoJackRussellsandababy Mon 29-Apr-13 22:26:41

Love the pattern, I have something similar in my stash to makesmile

I just wanted to sound a note of caution, sewing patterns don't really correlate to sizes in shops. The shops use vanity sizing, so I might fit into a fourteen (on a good day/in a generous shop) but I am a 20/22 on top when using a vogue pattern - bit depressing it must be said confused

SaggyOldClothCatPuss Mon 29-Apr-13 22:33:34

The measurements I took from her match the ones on the packet. I really think the size 8 will be fine! I will make the mock up first, so that I can work out any adjustments. The bust is elasticated so I can take it in a little more if need be. I think the skirt will lie flat. She is built pretty much straight up and down!

DalaHorse Mon 29-Apr-13 22:37:31

orangesandlemons you would have to have a pretty big bottom to stretch out the fabric in the seat area to the extent that the tucks are pulled out instead of being allowed to hang. I do know what you mean though, but that pattern is very a-line and OP's DD is 5' tall and has a size 10 bottom, she sounds so petite, I really wouldn't bother cutting it out as a 10 when the dress is not fitted to the hips. On this occasion smile

DalaHorse Mon 29-Apr-13 22:38:12

sorry orangesandemons

DalaHorse Mon 29-Apr-13 22:38:35

I am pernickety for getting user names right! smile

SaggyOldClothCatPuss Mon 29-Apr-13 22:40:08

If this works, I have designs on an adjustable form! I'd love to make her lots of clothes. She's got a lovely figure!

purplewithred Mon 29-Apr-13 22:44:35

if this is your first time with a dressmaking pattern definitely practice on that Star Wars duvet. Patterns can be very strangely sized and also take a bit of working out and practice.

SaggyOldClothCatPuss Mon 29-Apr-13 22:55:41

Yes! It looks really technical! confused The star Wars duvet will definitely be recycled!
I have a lovely shiny sewing machine to play with too. Mum has leant me hers. It does everything. I've always made everythingup to now on my great grandmothers treadle machine. It only goes forwards!! Mum's even does button holes and overlocking! <<happy>>

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